Martin & Anna Arndorfer
Kamptal, Austria
Winemaker: Martin Arndorfer
Martin & Anna Arndorfer
'I first met Martin Arndorfer at VieVinum in 2012. His stand was small, tucked in a corner of one of the more modest rooms within the Hofburg Palace in the centre of Vienna.
VieVinum is like all big wine fairs around the world - an overly hectic hustle of people, stories and unending bottles. Amongst this throng I met Martin, taken immediately by not only his smile and calmness, but also by his excellent grasp of English!
With a generosity not common when growers are dealing with many tasters at once, he talked me through his pure, precise and idiosyncratic range of wines from Strass in the east of Kamptal, not far from the famous hill of Gaisberg.
Martin's wines have a focus and delineation that is rare - they certainly don't lack for stuffing, but are poised along a backbone of acidity and soil expression. A mix of slate, granite, gneiss and loess exists around Strass, and these tones are clearly evident in the wines.
Amongst his prestige wines, Martin's training in Burgundy and experience with raising wines in barrel is evident, but never in place of purity and deliciousness.'
Gemischter Satz White (Grüner Veltliner/Riesling)
Certified Organic. Usually 60% Neuburger, 25% Gruner and 15% Riesling – a traditional field blend for this part of the Kamptal. Vineyard: Strasser Wechselberg – terraced vineyard at altitude 230-240 m. Planted in 1958 and soil is loess. All grapes were macerated 4 hours on skins before pressing. Whole bunch pressing, fermentation with native yeasts and aged for 10 months on the lees. 44 % in used French oak (228 liters and 10-12 years old) and 56 % in stainless steel barrels (75 gallons) with zero battonage or racking. Naturally occurring malo. No fining, just smart filtered once (a fine metal mesh to catch large solids). Sulfur added once (20mg/lt) – just before bottling. Approx. 75 cases produced annually. Martin is nothing if not quixotic and his pursuit of this vineyard and resulting wine reflect his vision and passion. He bought this parcel on the Wechselberg from an older farmed in 2005. Most of the terraces on this hill had been reworked and replanted (widened for tractors), but this little plot was the last piece with skinny terraces and old vines. He went to his father about buying the parcel (his dad still controlled the business’ money at the time), and his father said f*#k no. His objections were that it’s 100% handwork (no tractors) , the vines were “old” and they were going to need replanting in 20/30 years, and that it was just not good investment. To pile on and make it a multi-generational shaming, his grandfather said if Martin bought it, he was going to lie to his friends at the cafe in town and say he knows nothing about it. So, yeah of course Martin bought it. He used his own bit of personal savings and went 50/50 with his brother. And voila – stunning old vine Gemischter Satz completely worked by hand. His father and grandfather both love the wine now by the way.
Strasser Weinberge Riesling
Certified Organic. 100% Riesling. Sourced from 3 vineyards. Kammerner Gaisberg on primary rock (Gföhler Gneis), Zöbinger Gaisberg on primary rock (Gföhler Gneis), and Strasser Wechselberg Spiegel on primary rock (granite). Vineyards are at altitudes between 230-360 meters planted between 1986 and 2010. Whole punch pressing, maceration up to 12 hours on skins before pressing. Fermentation with native yeasts and aged for 10 months mainly in large neutral barrels and partly in stainless steel barrels (20%). Barrels are between 1200-1900 liters and between 2-30 years old. Naturally occurring malo. Sulfur added once (max 20 mg/l)- just before bottling. No fining, smart filtered once (a fine metal mesh to catch large solids). Strasser Weinberge is a protected name for “village wines“ which show you all characteristics of the variety and the village. Grapes are selected from the best vineyard sides in the village and express the diversity and complexity of the origin.
Strasser Weinberge Grüner Veltliner
Certified Organic. 100% Gruner Veltliner. Sourced from 4 different vineyards. Strasser Gaisberg on loess soil with primary rock subsoil, Strasser Wechselberg on heavy dark clay soil with high amount of chalk, Strasser Hasel on deep loess soil, and Strasser Stangl on deep loess soil. They are all south facing terraces with altitudes between 214-330 meters planted between 1959 and 2000. Whole punch pressing, no maceration before pressing. Fermented with native yeast and aged for 11 months mainly in large neutral barrels and partly in stainless steel (20%). Barrels are between 1200-1900 liters and between 2-30 years old. Naturally occurring malo. Sulfur added once (20 mg/lt.) – just before bottling no fining, smart filtered once (a fine metal mesh to catch large solids). Strasser Weinberge is a protected name for “village wines“ which show you all characteristics of the variety and the village. Grapes are selected from the best vineyard sides in the village and express the diversity and complexity of the origin.
Certified Organic. Usually 60% Neuburger, 25% Gruner and 15% Riesling – a traditional field blend for this part of the Kamptal. Vineyard: Strasser Wechselberg – terraced vineyard at altitude 230-240 m. Planted in 1958 and soil is loess. All grapes were macerated 4 hours on skins before pressing. Whole bunch pressing, fermentation with native yeasts and aged for 10 months on the lees. 44 % in used French oak (228 liters and 10-12 years old) and 56 % in stainless steel barrels (75 gallons) with zero battonage or racking. Naturally occurring malo. No fining, just smart filtered once (a fine metal mesh to catch large solids). Sulfur added once (20mg/lt) – just before bottling. Approx. 75 cases produced annually. Martin is nothing if not quixotic and his pursuit of this vineyard and resulting wine reflect his vision and passion. He bought this parcel on the Wechselberg from an older farmed in 2005. Most of the terraces on this hill had been reworked and replanted (widened for tractors), but this little plot was the last piece with skinny terraces and old vines. He went to his father about buying the parcel (his dad still controlled the business’ money at the time), and his father said f*#k no. His objections were that it’s 100% handwork (no tractors) , the vines were “old” and they were going to need replanting in 20/30 years, and that it was just not good investment. To pile on and make it a multi-generational shaming, his grandfather said if Martin bought it, he was going to lie to his friends at the cafe in town and say he knows nothing about it. So, yeah of course Martin bought it. He used his own bit of personal savings and went 50/50 with his brother. And voila – stunning old vine Gemischter Satz completely worked by hand. His father and grandfather both love the wine now by the way.
Strasser Weinberge Riesling
Certified Organic. 100% Riesling. Sourced from 3 vineyards. Kammerner Gaisberg on primary rock (Gföhler Gneis), Zöbinger Gaisberg on primary rock (Gföhler Gneis), and Strasser Wechselberg Spiegel on primary rock (granite). Vineyards are at altitudes between 230-360 meters planted between 1986 and 2010. Whole punch pressing, maceration up to 12 hours on skins before pressing. Fermentation with native yeasts and aged for 10 months mainly in large neutral barrels and partly in stainless steel barrels (20%). Barrels are between 1200-1900 liters and between 2-30 years old. Naturally occurring malo. Sulfur added once (max 20 mg/l)- just before bottling. No fining, smart filtered once (a fine metal mesh to catch large solids). Strasser Weinberge is a protected name for “village wines“ which show you all characteristics of the variety and the village. Grapes are selected from the best vineyard sides in the village and express the diversity and complexity of the origin.
Strasser Weinberge Grüner Veltliner
Certified Organic. 100% Gruner Veltliner. Sourced from 4 different vineyards. Strasser Gaisberg on loess soil with primary rock subsoil, Strasser Wechselberg on heavy dark clay soil with high amount of chalk, Strasser Hasel on deep loess soil, and Strasser Stangl on deep loess soil. They are all south facing terraces with altitudes between 214-330 meters planted between 1959 and 2000. Whole punch pressing, no maceration before pressing. Fermented with native yeast and aged for 11 months mainly in large neutral barrels and partly in stainless steel (20%). Barrels are between 1200-1900 liters and between 2-30 years old. Naturally occurring malo. Sulfur added once (20 mg/lt.) – just before bottling no fining, smart filtered once (a fine metal mesh to catch large solids). Strasser Weinberge is a protected name for “village wines“ which show you all characteristics of the variety and the village. Grapes are selected from the best vineyard sides in the village and express the diversity and complexity of the origin.